How to Repot a Snake Plant
Repotting a snake plant is all about giving its roots more space, fresh soil, and a better chance to thrive — and I’ll show you exactly how to do it, step by step. 🪴💪
Repotting a snake plant is all about giving its roots more space, fresh soil, and a better chance to thrive — and I’ll show you exactly how to do it, step by step. 🪴💪
Repotting a snake plant might sound intimidating, but it’s honestly one of the easiest ways to keep it healthy and growing strong.
I’ve repotted dozens of them — from tiny pups to big, root-bound monsters — and every time, the process gets smoother.
The trick is to keep things simple.
You don’t need fancy tools or special skills — just a good pot with proper drainage, the right soil mix, and a few easy steps.
If your snake plant is outgrowing its container, dealing with root rot, or just needs a fresh start, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know. 🌱💚
Large snake plants can get root-bound fast. I’ve had some that literally cracked the pot before I got around to repotting them.
If your plant looks crowded, top-heavy, or isn’t draining well, it’s time to move it up.
Here’s exactly how I repot big ones without making a mess:
🛠️ What I use:
✅ Step-by-step:
Root rot isn’t just a surface problem — it can spread fast.
If I notice soggy soil, droopy leaves, or a funky smell when unpotting my plant, I know I’ve got a root rot situation.
Here’s how I deal with it step-by-step:
For a more in-depth rescue plan, I use this guide I put together: 👉 How to save a snake plant
If there’s one thing snake plants hate, it’s soggy soil.
Every time I repot, I make sure the mix is loose, gritty, and drains fast.
Regular potting soil holds too much moisture — and that’s a fast track to rot.
My go-to soil mix looks like this:
You can also go with a ready-made option.
No matter what mix I use, I always pair it with a pot that has good drainage — otherwise, even the best soil can’t save your plant.
🌱 Quick Tip
Always use a pot with a drainage hole — it’s the #1 way to prevent root rot.
Snake plants are low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean they can stay in the same pot forever.
Over time, the roots take over, the soil breaks down, and the plant starts to slow down — or struggle.
I don’t repot mine on a strict schedule.
Instead, I watch for these clear signs that it’s time to give them fresh space and new soil.
This is always my first clue. When roots start growing out the bottom of the pot, it means they’ve run out of room inside.
That’s the plant saying, “Hey, I’m cramped!”
Once I see this, I know repotting isn’t optional anymore — it’s overdue.
Sometimes the roots get so tight, they start lifting the plant out of the soil.
The base might look like it’s sitting above the rim, or the whole thing feels like it’s about to pop out.
This usually happens with older snake plants that haven’t been moved in a while.
If I water and the soil barely holds any moisture — like it drains straight through — that’s a red flag.
When roots take up all the space, there’s not enough soil left to absorb water properly.
The plant ends up dehydrated even though you’re watering it.
Good soil should feel loose and fluffy.
But when it starts pulling away from the edges or looking hard and crusty on top, it’s time.
Compacted soil holds onto water too long or not at all — and snake plants hate both.
A strong root system anchors the plant.
But if mine starts tipping with the slightest touch or the leaves are flopping to one side, it’s probably because the roots are too crowded to keep it upright. That’s when I prep for a new pot.
Even if there are no dramatic signs, I repot every couple of years just to refresh the soil.
Snake plants don’t need constant repotting, but after a while, the nutrients run out and the roots can stall out.
A little change goes a long way.
🕳️ Did You Know?
Snake plants can literally crack their pots when rootbound. If yours is bulging, it’s past due for repotting.
Mother in Law Tongue Plant aren’t needy, but they do outgrow their pots — just slowly.
When I first started with them, I assumed I had to repot every year.
Nope.
Now I follow a much more relaxed approach.
For healthy, established plants, I usually repot every 2 to 3 years.
That’s enough time for the roots to fill out the pot, but not so long that they get root-bound or starved for nutrients.
But I don’t just wait for the calendar — I look for clues.
If the soil isn’t draining right, the plant is top-heavy, or the roots are poking out, I move things up sooner. (You can scroll up to check those signs again if you’re unsure.)
On the other hand, if the plant is young or I’ve just propagated a new one, I might repot after a year or so, just to give it fresh soil and room to expand.
And if I’m dealing with a sick plant — say it’s got root rot or it came from a store with bad soil — I don’t wait.
I repot it right away, no matter what season or age.
So the short answer?
Every 2–3 years is perfect for most snake plants.
But let the plant — not the calendar — make the final call. 🪴⌛
🪴 Plant Fact
Repotting gives your plant more than space — it resets the soil, boosts nutrients, and helps growth bounce back.
When a snake plant starts dying, repotting can sometimes save it — but only if it’s done carefully.
I’ve brought a few back from the brink, and the key is to be gentle, go step-by-step, and focus on the roots.
Here’s how I handle a struggling or dying Sansevieria:
I remove the plant from its pot and shake off as much soil as I can.
If the roots are soggy, brown, or smell bad, I know I’m dealing with root rot.
I cut off anything mushy or black with clean scissors.
If the leaves are soft or collapsing, I trim those back too.
No point keeping parts that are draining the plant’s energy.
After trimming, I leave the plant out for a few hours — sometimes even overnight — especially if I removed a lot of damaged roots.
This helps the cuts callous over and lowers the risk of infection.
I always use a fast-draining mix and a pot with a drainage hole.
I pot the plant gently, firming the soil just enough to hold it upright.
And here’s the important part: I don’t water right away.
I give it 3–5 days to adjust before the first drink — just enough time to heal and settle in.
Over the next couple of weeks, I keep it in bright, indirect light and resist the urge to fuss.
I’ve seen plants that looked nearly dead perk up once they had room to breathe and clean soil around their roots.
It’s not always a guaranteed save — but if there’s still a firm rhizome or healthy root system, you’ve got a shot.
I’ve revived plants with just a couple leaves left, and they came back stronger than ever.
✂️ Good to Know
Cutting away dead or rotted roots won’t hurt your plant — it helps it heal and regrow stronger.
Embrace the spirit of horticulture and spread the seeds of wisdom
One Response
I’ve always wondered about the right time to repot my snake plant—great to know that dried soil or exposed roots are signs it’s time. Thanks for the helpful guide!