How to Separate Snake Plant Pups
Want to grow more snake plants from your existing one? The secret is in the pups — and I’ll show you exactly how to separate them the right way.
Want to grow more snake plants from your existing one? The secret is in the pups — and I’ll show you exactly how to separate them the right way.
🌱 Wait until pups are mature — at least 3–4 inches tall with visible roots.
🪴 Gently unpot the plant and loosen the root ball without damaging rhizomes.
✂️ Separate pups cleanly using sterilized shears if needed — avoid tearing.
🧱 Repot using cactus or succulent mix in breathable pots like terracotta.
🚫 Skip watering right away — let new plants adjust before giving them a drink.
Snake plants, or Sansevieria trifasciata, naturally produce pups — small offshoots that grow from the base, connected by underground rhizomes.
These pups are your best opportunity to propagate a healthy new plant without waiting months for leaf cuttings to root.
I’ve done this dozens of times, and I can tell you — if your snake plant looks crowded or root-bound, it’s the perfect time to step in.
I’ll try to walk you through when to divide pups, how to gently separate them without damaging the roots, and how to pot them up successfully using the right tools, soil, and aftercare.
You’ll also find a real video tutorial below — so you can see every step as it’s done in real time.
🧬 Snake plant pups are clones — they grow from underground rhizomes, making them genetically identical to the mother plant
This is exactly how I separate pups from my snake plants—it’s quick, clean, and gives both the mother plant and the pups a fresh start.
You don’t need fancy tools, just some patience and a gentle hand.
Start by gently tipping the pot on its side and sliding the whole root ball out.
If the plant is root-bound or the soil is compacted, squeeze the sides of the pot or tap the bottom to loosen it.
I usually do this outdoors or over a tray—it can get a little messy.
🌿 2. Identify the Pups and Rhizomes
Once the soil is brushed off, look for smaller plants growing next to the main stem—those are your pups.
They’re often connected by thick, white rhizomes.
Some may already have their own roots, while others might still be forming.
Pro tip: Don’t rush this part. A good pup is at least 3–4 inches tall with a visible root base.
If the pup has its own root system and wiggles freely, you can often pull it apart with a little twist.
If it’s still tightly attached, I use sterilized pruning shears to cut the rhizome cleanly. If there’s a fresh wound, I sometimes dust it with cinnamon powder to prevent rot—it acts as a natural antifungal.
🏡 4. Repot the Mother and Pup Plants Separately
Place each pup into its own well-draining soil, preferably something breathable, pot-like terracotta.
I always use a succulent or cactus mix, sometimes with a bit of pumice or perlite mixed in to improve drainage.
After planting, don’t water immediately—let them settle and dry out for a few days first.
⚡ They grow fast when happy — in the right conditions (bright indirect light + dry soil), a single plant can produce multiple pups per year
Once your pups are repotted, the next few weeks are critical for healthy growth.
I’ve seen people lose perfectly good offshoots just by watering too soon or placing them in poor conditions.
Here’s what I always do after separation—and what to avoid.
Don’t water the newly potted pups right away.
I usually wait 3–5 days to let any root wounds dry and reduce the risk of root rot.
During this time, keep the plants in bright, indirect light—avoid strong sun or low-light corners.
🌱 Watch for Transplant Shock
It’s normal for a pup to look a bit droopy or limp in the first week. This is usually transplant shock—a sign that it’s adjusting to the new environment. Just give it time, and don’t overwater thinking it needs help.
Pro tip: Don’t fertilize until you see new growth—wait at least 3–4 weeks.
Separating too early — wait until pups are 3–4 inches tall with some roots.
Tugging or tearing rhizomes — always cut cleanly with sterilized tools.
Using heavy or soggy soil — go for succulent mixes with perlite.
Overwatering after repotting — it does more harm than good.
Placing in low-light corners — pups need energy to root and grow.
Entity touchpoint: Succulent soil, perlite, pruning shears, overwatering, plant stress signals
❄️ Skip separation in winter — I always wait until spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing
🧪 Cinnamon isn’t just for baking — it’s a natural antifungal I use on cut rhizomes to prevent rot
Embrace the spirit of horticulture and spread the seeds of wisdom
