🌱 How to Cut Snake Plant for Propagation
If you’ve got a healthy snake plant and you’re ready to grow more, cutting and propagating it is easier than you might think — and super satisfying. ✂️🌿
If you’ve got a healthy snake plant and you’re ready to grow more, cutting and propagating it is easier than you might think — and super satisfying. ✂️🌿
✂️ Always cut with sterilized scissors and choose healthy, firm leaves.
⏳ Let cuttings callous for 1–2 days before rooting to prevent rot.
🌊 Root in water if you want to see roots develop; use soil for easier transplanting.
🌱 Mark the bottom of cuttings — snake plants only root one way.
🪴 Grow with patience — new leaves can take weeks or months to appear, and that’s totally normal.
I’ve cut and propagated a lot of snake plants over the years — it’s honestly one of the easiest and most rewarding things to do as a plant parent.
Doesn’t matter if your plant is getting too tall, leaning over, or you just want to create more of them; cutting a snake plant the right way is the first step.
Here’s what works best for me:
I choose a healthy, firm leaf, usually one that’s older but still strong.
Then I cut it cleanly at the base using sharp, disinfected scissors or a knife (I always wipe mine down with 3% hydrogen peroxide before and after cutting). The most important thing I’ve learned?
Always mark the end that was closest to the soil, because that’s the side that should go into water or soil — otherwise, the cutting won’t root.
A lot of people ask me if they should make a straight cut or a V-cut, so here’s what I’ve found over the years:
✂️ Straight cuts are what I use 90% of the time. They’re clean, simple, and make it easy to track which side is up or down. They root very reliably.
🔻 V-cuts (where you cut the bottom into a V shape) are sometimes recommended to increase surface area and give roots more room to form. I’ve tried both, and while V-cuts look cool, I haven’t noticed faster or better rooting compared to straight cuts. In fact, they’re a little trickier to balance upright in water or soil.
🚫 What I avoid are angled or jagged cuts — those tend to rot faster or don’t root well, especially if not fully dried before planting.
So, my advice?
Stick to a clean, straight cut if you’re just starting out.
It works, it’s easy to manage, and it’s one less thing to overthink when you’re trying to propagate your first Snake plants.
Once I’ve made my cuts, I let them dry out and callous for a day or two.
This step is key to preventing rot.
After that, I either stick them in water or into a well-draining soil mix and wait for roots to appear.
It takes patience, but it’s so worth it when those little roots start to show.
Now, let me walk you through each part in more detail, starting with how to make that first clean cut.
🧠 Snake plants don’t root upside down — always keep track of the base when cutting!
When I’m ready to propagate a snake plant, the very first thing I do is pick a leaf that looks strong, mature, and healthy — no soft spots, browning, or signs of pests.
Thick, upright leaves work best, especially ones that have been on the plant for a while and aren’t the youngest or the oldest.
Before I make the cut, I always clean my scissors or knife with 3% hydrogen peroxide. This helps kill any bacteria or fungus that might otherwise infect the cutting or the parent plant.
Trust me — one quick wipe can save you from losing a whole propagation batch to rot.
Once my tools are clean and ready, here’s exactly how I take the cuttings:
Choose the leaf — I go for a full, firm leaf that’s not too young or soft.
Cut it at the base — I make a clean, straight cut as close to the soil line as possible.
Optional: Cut into sections — If the leaf is long, I sometimes divide it into smaller pieces, around 10–15 cm (4–6 inches) each. But this part can get tricky — more on that in the next section.
Mark the “bottom” end — This is super important! I either snip the bottom end into a slight point or mark it with a pencil. That’s the end that needs to go down when planting — snake plant cuttings will not root upside down.
Let them callous — I lay my cuttings flat on a dry surface for 1 to 2 days to let the ends dry out. This step helps prevent rot once they go into soil or water.
“Every time I skip the callousing step, I regret it. Moisture trapped inside a fresh cut = rot city.”
Once the cuttings are dry, they’re ready to root — either in water or directly in soil.
🧪 3% hydrogen peroxide is a cheap, plant-safe way to sterilize scissors before cutting.
After I’ve taken and dried my cuttings, it’s time for the fun part — propagating.
This is where those plain leaf segments start turning into actual new plants.
There are two ways I usually do this: in water or directly in soil.
Both work, and I’ve had success with each, but they have slightly different pros and cons.
If I want to watch the roots grow, I use water.
If I want to skip transplant shock later, I go straight into soil.
But no matter which method I choose, I always start by double-checking that the bottom of the cutting is going into the growing medium — the end that was originally closest to the soil when the leaf was attached to the mother plant.
Here’s how I prep for either method:
I gather my container (glass jar for water or small pot with well-draining soil).
I make sure everything is clean — especially if I’m reusing pots.
I keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light and avoid direct sun while they’re rooting.
And then… I wait. This part takes patience — anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks before roots appear.
“The first time I tried propagating, I checked for roots every day. Now I just set a reminder once a week — they need peace to grow!”
Next, I’ll show you how to root the cuttings in both water and soil — so you can pick the method that fits you best.
💧 Water propagation isn't faster — it's just more visual. Soil and water rooting take about the same time.
Rooting a snake plant cutting is where the magic happens — but it’s also the part that most people get nervous about.
I get it.
You’ve made your cuts, waited patiently for them to callous… and now you’re wondering, What if nothing happens?
Here’s the good news: snake plants are incredibly forgiving, and they root beautifully if you give them what they need — the right environment, time, and a little patience.
Rooting is the process where your cutting grows tiny, white roots that eventually anchor into soil and take up water.
Without roots, the cutting can’t support new growth.
But here’s the trick I learned: don’t rush it.
Snake plant cuttings aren’t fast like pothos — they like to take their time.
The plant is forming new root tissue from the base of the leaf.
If the cutting was placed upside down (easy mistake to make), it won’t root at all.
If it’s too wet too early, it might rot instead of grow.
That’s why direction, cleanliness, and timing matter so much.
“Rooting a cutting isn’t about doing something every day — it’s about setting it up for success and then knowing when to leave it alone.”
From my experience, success comes down to three things:
Using the right method for your environment (water or soil)
Keeping things clean and well-lit (but not sunny!)
Checking only once a week, not pulling the cutting out constantly
So if you’re rooting in water to watch the action or placing cuttings directly in soil to avoid transplanting later, your main job is to support the cutting and not disturb it too much while it gets settled.
Once the first tiny roots show up, everything speeds up from there.
And trust me — there’s nothing more satisfying than seeing that first sign of life and knowing you made it happen.
I love using water because I can actually watch the roots grow, and it helps me feel confident that the plant is doing well.
Here’s how I do it:
I grab a clear glass jar or cup — this helps me see the water level and root growth.
I fill it with clean, room-temperature water (filtered if possible).
I place the cutting in the water so only the bottom 2–3 cm (about 1 inch) is submerged — never the whole leaf!
I change the water every 3–5 days. If I forget, the water gets cloudy, and the cutting can start to rot. Or, you can shake cup from time to time, so water get oxigen.
I keep the glass in a bright, indirect light spot, like near a window, but not in hot sun.
🧪 Pro Tip: If I’m worried about bacteria, I’ll add a few drops of 3% hydrogen peroxide to the water to help keep it clean.
Example: I once had a cutting in water that took three weeks to sprout roots — but when they came in, they were thick and healthy. The whole time, the key was keeping the water clean and the light just right.
Soil propagation is great if you want to skip the transplant step later.
I usually use this method if I already have a good mix ready.
Here’s what I do:
I use a small nursery pot with drainage holes — snake plants hate sitting in soggy soil.
My soil mix is super important. I use:
50% potting mix
25% perlite or pumice
25% coarse sand or orchid bark
I stick the cutting about 4–5 cm (1.5–2 inches) into the soil, base side down.
I gently press the soil around the cutting to hold it upright.
I don’t water right away. I wait about 2–3 days so the leaf can fully settle in, then I water lightly.
🧴 Bonus tip: If I’m rooting in a humid room or during winter, I’ll cover the pot with a plastic bag (with holes) to help keep the air moist. Like a mini greenhouse!
Example: My best soil-grown cuttings usually take about 4 weeks to show root resistance — I test this by giving them a light tug. If they hold steady, they’ve rooted!
| Method | Best For | Key Tips | Rooting Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water | Watching roots grow visually | Use clear glass, change water every 3–5 days, bright indirect light | 2–4 weeks |
| Soil | Faster transition to potting | Use well-draining soil, don’t overwater, keep warm and humid | 3–5 weeks |
🪴 Snake plant cuttings can root even if you forget about them (as long as they’re in the right conditions).
So you’ve made the cut, waited for roots to show up, and now your snake plant cutting is officially alive. 🎉
But rooting is just the beginning — now it’s time to help your new plant grow into a strong, mature snake plant.
This part is actually easier than most people think.
Snake plants are low-maintenance by nature, but your cutting still needs a little extra attention while it gets established.
Here’s how I help mine grow after they’ve rooted:
I always move rooted cuttings to a spot with bright, indirect light.
Think: near a sunny window, but not directly in the path of harsh sunbeams.
Too much direct sun can burn the young leaves and dry out the roots before they settle.
“If I can read a book in the light but it’s not blinding — that’s the sweet spot.”
This is a non-negotiable. Snake plants hate soggy soil. I always use a mix like:
50% potting soil
25% perlite or pumice
25% coarse sand or orchid bark
It should feel loose and gritty, not dense or muddy.
Right after rooting, I water lightly — just enough to settle the soil. After that, I only water when the top 4–5 cm (2 inches) of soil is bone dry. Overwatering is the fastest way to ruin a new cutting.
🧠 Tip: I always poke my finger into the soil before watering. If it feels even slightly damp, I wait.
I give my cuttings at least 4–6 weeks before feeding. The roots are still delicate, and too many nutrients too soon can shock the plant. When I do start, I use a gentle diluted cactus or succulent fertilizer, and only once every 4–6 weeks during growing season.
New leaf growth can take several months, depending on light, temperature, and time of year. I’ve had cuttings root in a month but not push out a new leaf for 3–4 months — and that’s totally normal.
“Snake plants like to take their time. If it’s alive, green, and firm, it’s doing fine.”
🌿 One leaf = multiple babies — you can cut one leaf into several segments and root each one.
Embrace the spirit of horticulture and spread the seeds of wisdom
4 Responses
Good
Awesome
Awesome
Awesome